Flat hunting in Dakar
Hello!
I'm currently on the hunt for a flat to rent, and let me tell you, it's been quite the journey—trying to stay positive here, but honestly, it's driving me insane.
After my separation, I moved back in with my parents, thinking it would be a temporary situation. I figured that once I settled in, I'd quickly find a place of my own. Fast forward six years since my divorce, and I’m still living at home. The reasons are straightforward: finding an affordable flat in this city, especially in this economy, is nothing short of a Herculean task. My brother and his wife spent two years searching before they found something decent and affordable near our parents' house. They’ve turned their flat into a place they love with renovations and thoughtful décor. Renting is expensive, and owning is practically unattainable unless you buy land outside the city, build from scratch, and ideally, bought that land 20 years ago. Sometimes, when I see the prices, I feel like crying because I honestly don't know how I'll ever afford my own place in Dakar.
I could rent, of course, but my criteria seem to be so high that I'll have to compromise on either location or price. Here’s the thing: I’m looking for a two-bedroom flat. A three-bedroom would be even better so the boys could each have their own room, but they aren’t with me all the time, so that feels like a luxury. I’d prefer to live in a new building, though I’m open to older ones. I also want the flat to be within walking distance of my parents' house. I grew up in this neighborhood, so I know where everything is, and I could always drop by for food or to check on my parents. My neighborhood and the ones nearby are quieter and less crowded than others.
Cowrie ear cuff - CAVA Abidjan
Thongs - Centenaire market
However, flats around here are pricey, sometimes reaching up to $1,000 a month. There's a three-bedroom flat just behind my parents’ house that's slightly cheaper. The layout is nice, but I can’t justify the price. Flats in the suburbs are more affordable, but trying to reach those places without a car is not something I want to do. If I were in Japan, where public transportation is reliable, I’d consider renting outside the city. But in Dakar, where catching a bus can be tricky, I’d rather not. I’m hopeful about the new Rapid Bus system, which is working well, but I once lived outside the city for six months and had to wake up at 5 AM to make it to work by 8. Every morning was a mad rush, and back then, my ex-husband drove me. It's not an experience I’m eager to repeat.
I want to stay in the city, close to work, the markets for my side hustle, and entertainment. But that means spending a fortune I don’t have. Renting a flat isn’t just about paying rent. You need to cover electricity, water, and internet bills. Then there’s buying furniture, a fridge, a gas oven, maybe a washing machine, and decorating to make it feel like home. You need to buy food and toiletries. There are so many things you need in a house or flat. Sure, you can take your time buying some things, especially furniture, but I understand why people take out loans to furnish their homes.
The other problem is that some flats are awful. The rooms are so tiny you feel like you're living in a shoebox. Many have no windows, and the kitchens and bathrooms are dreadful. Even my small university dorm room in Japan had a better bathroom. Some neighborhoods are overcrowded and can be dangerous, especially at night. And once you move in, the problems pile up—from noisy neighbors to landlords who don't keep their promises. But I guess that’s the case anywhere you go.
And then there's the hassle of the search itself. We rely on brokers, either independent or from real estate agencies. Some brokers are the most unreliable people you could ever meet. They’re unprofessional and unresponsive. You give them your criteria, but you have to chase them down just to get a chance to visit a flat. I can't even count how many times I’ve had to call a broker just to visit a place. One stood me up twice after scheduling an appointment. The second time, I was so frustrated that I blocked his number. They lie and inflate the prices to get more commission from the deal. And let’s not forget you have to pay a fee just to visit a flat!
I’m dealing with all these issues right now, and my patience is wearing thin as I type this. The brokers are lucky it’s a seller’s market. Real estate prices have soared over the last five years. Many people are looking for a place to rent in the city, but there aren’t many affordable options. So, the brokers take advantage of us poor renters.
But I’m not giving up yet. I’ll find that place, even if I have to make some compromises. I haven’t given my final word. Please keep me in your prayers as I navigate this ordeal. If you want to have a glimpse of the flats I have been visiting, go check my Instagram .
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