Road trip - Ndar- Touba- Ndiareme
Hi y'all!
Happy New Year 2024!
How is the first month of the year 2024 treating you?
I a doing almost fine. I have indulged in the last days of 2023. Therefore I am dealing with a lenghthy indigestion. I need to go see a doctor and figure out why my stomach is getting upset.
The first week of January, I had my aunt visit us from London. She is the younger sister of my father but we are the same age (African familes). We grew up together. and even after we were separated, we still kept in touch. She came to Senegal after nearly 20 years. And she absolytely wanted to go visit Saint Louis, Touba and Diourbel. So my Dad and I accompagny her.
My Dad drove all the way to Saint Louis (Ndar) one sunday morning. We stopped by a small village near Kebemer, to buy cute potteries and fans made in plastic. I bought two clay pots used to burn incense. They were too cute to resist. The irony is that I never burn incense because I am allergic. On top of that, I bought them hoping to decorate my own flat, which I do not even have at the moment.
After that stop, we also managed to go to Ngaaye, which is another village reputed for its leather work. My Aunt and Dad bought leather sandals, while I focused on purchasing locally hand embroidered dresses. Two months prior, I was in Ngaaye and I had already purchased leather sandals for the family and myself. So I did not need any more. I wonder why the artisans at Ngaaye do not make any leather bags. I just saw some small bags called Makhtoub, essentially worn by men from a Religious Brotherhood called Mourids. They were so cute but way too small for me.
Makhtoub
We arrived in Ndar by 5PM. The city was still the same, bustling with people and ambiance, beautifully wrapped in its old aesthetic and modern atmosphere. We stayed at my father's family house. It is a huge house only habited by my cousin. He welcomed us with drinks and fried chicken after we settled down. The food was so good. I thought it was diner but by 8PM, he gave us proper diner of fried fish, salad and fried sweet potatoes. We were no longer hungry but we had to indulge to avoid offending our host. That is what we call the Ndar hospitality. Those people will never let you get hungry. After diner, we went around town to visit family. It was always a pleasure to meet my cousins who are all older than me. They introduce us to new family members, particularly the babies born since the last time we were here and delighted us with stories about the upcoming elections and the changes in the city. We were back to sleep by almost 11PM.
The following day we had a copious breakfast by 11 AM, consisted of the diner's leftovers. I was up by 9, and I took the time to do some work on my computer because I was not on leave. After lunch, we went to show the city to my Aunt. We drove all around town showing her different landmarks: the famous Faidherbe bridge, the post office, the governor's office, the church, the oldest mosque in the city, the old town with the fishermen, the cemetery, Hydrobase, the beach, ect. We stopped along the way to take pictures. It was a beautiful hot morning, people were outside going about their business: selling at the market, returning from fishing in the sea, kids returning from schools, eating snacks. It made such a colorful picture of the island. At one point, we stopped and bought souvenirs. I wanted to buy a bedsheet made of patchwork fabrics. Every time I come to Ndar, I want to buy one but the price was always too high (tourist price). This time, I found a nice man willing to sell them for cheaper. I bought two pieces but I had to stop myself from getting more. I know exactly what I will do with them.
After the tour, we returned to one my cousin's house because my Aunt wanted to purchase some embroidered dress from her. My cousin makes these beautiful embroidered dresses and tableclothes. She is so talented and I always wanted to order from her for my own business. However, she says she does not take many orders because these things take time. Plus, she is so busy taking care of her household. That is why it is best to purchase things she has already made. My Aunt purchased a dress and a wrap around skirt so beautifully embroidered with flowers.
Flower embroidery made by my cousin
Back at our place, we ate a copious lunch made of the tradional dish of Tiebou jeun (rice and fish). They say that the rice and fish from Saint Louis is special because it was invented by a woman from that place. And they are right. It is always delicious. I particularly like it when they make it using the tiny rice which ressembles couscous. After lunch, we could not move. We stayed home talking. I had plans to visit another cousin of ours I had not seen in years, but I just could not get up. Barely a few hours after lunch, our host gave us Akara (fried bean paste) and I indulged. We were all tired and stuffed so we decided to call my cousin and stay home. I have no idea how we manage to eat diner by 9PM.
Tiebou Jeun
Fried chicken and salad for diner
The following morning, we bid farewell to our host and headed to Touba. Touba is the second largest city in Senegal. It is home to the Leader of the Mourid Brotherhood, which is a muslim brotherhood. They follow the precepts of their Leader Ahmadou Bamba Mbacke, who was revered and even fought against colonialism. My Aunt who is a Mourid, wanted to visit a childhood friend living in the city but also the Grand Mosque of Touba. We visited her friend who welcomed us with so much food. By that time my stomach was acting up so I could not even enjoy it properly. But the hospitaly of Touba really marked us. We spend nearly 4 hours in her house, talking and eating.
Afterwards we went to visit the Mosque. It is a such a beautiful structures with lots of filigree decorations. We prayed. I was mesmerized by the architecture and decor. After the Sheikh Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi, I think it is one of the most beautiful mosque I have ever visited. Sadly I could not take many pictures. But this visit is forever engrained in my memory.
We left Touba at past 5pm and headed to Diourbel or Ndiareme. The place is dear to us because it is where most of our family comes from. My Grandfather was born there, my father lived there for most of his chidhood. Unfortunately, we wasted so much time, taking the wrong way and getting lost. Senegalese national roads are so much better and easy to travel on these days. However, they lack significant signs that would let you know which directions to take. We frequently had to stop to ask for directions to people on the streets. We also used google maps because most people are not very reliable. By the time we arrived in Diourbel, it was past 8PM. We did not even stay long there. We just met one religious figure whose family is very closed to ours. He explained the connections to us and formulated some prayers.
On the way to Dakar, we stopped at EDK, which is a gas station, a shop and a restaurant. I love EDK, because it is the only place where I find decent toilets on the road. And luckily, the business has opened several branches in all major cities in Senegal. The stop saved my life, because I could finally use the bathroom properly. As a woman, you never know what type of facilities there are on the way. And you cannot do your business on the fields like some men do. But with EDK on the roads, I have less worries. Plus their food is average and clean enough to eat.
We arrived in Dakar past 10 PM. I just took a shower and went to bed. This trip will be memorable. It was so much fun visiting Ndar. This city will always have a special place in my heart. Sadly, I always leave it wanting to do more. Next time, I will visit it by myself and take the time to do everything that I truly want to do there. Touba was also a real pleasure. I have heard so much about this religious city and had huge apprehension. However, we were welcomed even by strangers. It was really a treat to see the Mosque as well. The only problem was me being sick with indigestion and having my allergies. I forgot to bring my allergy medecine with me. At some point, I was in so much pain, I wanted to die. Thank GOD, we made it safe and sound back home.
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