Road Trip: Saint Louis
This year, I decided to go on a road trip to the north of the country, to a lovely town called Ndar or Saint Louis. I took the kids and my Dad with me. I wanted the kids to get out of the city and discover places outside of Dakar. And since my Dad lived in Ndar in the past, he would be the perfect guide.
We took the bus not far from our house. It is the local bus company. The bus is spacious enough, but not high end. I did not complain because the ticket is cheap. We departed at 7 AM and arrived in Saint Louis at 11 AM after a 15 mns stop along the way. We were met at the bus station by a cousin who usually lives in Dakar but was in Ndar for work. He droped us at the family home. The last time I was there, it was probably 1996. Therefore the house has changed. Although it is now a two stories house it seemed smaller than I remember. I like the decor that is kitsch but the house is very comfortable. It used to be a full house back in the days but now only my cousin lives there. The family is a branch of my Dad's family. In fact, his cousin was the Mother of the people who lived there. When my father was in middle school, he moved from Diourbel, (another region in Senegal) to Ndar to attend one of the best college of Senegal back in the day. And he stayed at his cousin 's house and became best pal with her oldest son. The family counts around 9 children and they are all so nice and generous. Coming back to this house, is like going back home.
After settling in the house we had to go visit the other members of the family living in the city. I got to see the house of my ancestor which used to be from one block to another. Apparently he was a successful businessman and had a huge compound . Nowadays only one part of the house is left as the descendants probably sold the rest.
I also visited some other cousins of mine. One of them makes clothes and embroidery and once I showed interest, she later dispatched her daughter to teach me a few things about the kind of embroidery they did. I spent an entire afternoon embroidering flowers. And it reminded me of a time I spent hours trying to make fireworks embroidery as homework for design school.
One of the best thing Ndar is known for is the good food. Mind you it is the same food we have in Dakar. Yet Ndar's food is special. Maybe it is the fresh produce (mainly fish), maybe it is the amount of love they put in while cooking? I do not know what it is but the food is excellent. And people here always force you to eat a lot, always filling and refilling your plate.
Ndar is also known for its hospitality. People are nice and welcoming and easy going. After one day spent there, even my usually grouchy son agreed that it was good place to live. He even went so far as to tell me that he would not mind us relocating there.
On the second day of our stay, we went to visit the Island of Ndar. Saint Louis is divided into three parts: Sor, where we stayed, the main island and the last part compromised of Ndar Tout and Guett Ndar. We took a carriage ride around the main island comprised of old colonial homes some in ruins, some renovated in vibrant colors. Our chauffeur was also a guide and he amused us with interesting stories. Did you know that during colonial times, the governor thought the call of prayer to be disturbing since he lived behind the main mosque? So he put a clock and a bell at the Mosque and forced the Muslims to use them instead. I also learned that there was an underground passage between the military camps in the north side of the island and the governor's residence on the south side. In case of attacks during world war 2, the governor could use the secret passage to flee. Needless to say that the ride was entertaining and educational.
After the ride, we went to visit another cousin for lunch and spent the day with her children and grandchildren. It was nice to just sit and be treated like royalty for a change.
The following day we went back home but this time we hired a car and a driver. We stopped by Ngaay, which is a place famous for its handmade leather shoes. I went overboard and bought 4 pair of sandals for myself and others as souvenirs. I wanted more but I found the design to lack a bit of finesse. Still I had my shoes for peanuts so I cannot really complain.
It was such a nice and relaxing trip. It was decided at the last minute but I do not regret it one bit. The kids got to go out of the city, discover new things, and meet their extended family. As long as they were far away from their video games, I was pleased. My Dad got to go back in time and I was the most relaxed I had been in months. I think I will return but then, I will try and stay in a hotel or lodge. My family is great and all but they go out of their way to welcome and please you. And I would not want to impose on them.
We took the bus not far from our house. It is the local bus company. The bus is spacious enough, but not high end. I did not complain because the ticket is cheap. We departed at 7 AM and arrived in Saint Louis at 11 AM after a 15 mns stop along the way. We were met at the bus station by a cousin who usually lives in Dakar but was in Ndar for work. He droped us at the family home. The last time I was there, it was probably 1996. Therefore the house has changed. Although it is now a two stories house it seemed smaller than I remember. I like the decor that is kitsch but the house is very comfortable. It used to be a full house back in the days but now only my cousin lives there. The family is a branch of my Dad's family. In fact, his cousin was the Mother of the people who lived there. When my father was in middle school, he moved from Diourbel, (another region in Senegal) to Ndar to attend one of the best college of Senegal back in the day. And he stayed at his cousin 's house and became best pal with her oldest son. The family counts around 9 children and they are all so nice and generous. Coming back to this house, is like going back home.
After settling in the house we had to go visit the other members of the family living in the city. I got to see the house of my ancestor which used to be from one block to another. Apparently he was a successful businessman and had a huge compound . Nowadays only one part of the house is left as the descendants probably sold the rest.
A picture of one of my great uncle in the family home
I also visited some other cousins of mine. One of them makes clothes and embroidery and once I showed interest, she later dispatched her daughter to teach me a few things about the kind of embroidery they did. I spent an entire afternoon embroidering flowers. And it reminded me of a time I spent hours trying to make fireworks embroidery as homework for design school.
One of the best thing Ndar is known for is the good food. Mind you it is the same food we have in Dakar. Yet Ndar's food is special. Maybe it is the fresh produce (mainly fish), maybe it is the amount of love they put in while cooking? I do not know what it is but the food is excellent. And people here always force you to eat a lot, always filling and refilling your plate.
Beignets made by my cousin for desert after a good Tiebou Jeun Penda Mbaye, national dish of Senegal and orginally from Ndar
Breakfast made of french baguette, fried eggs in tomato sauce, coffee and fruits
Ndar is also known for its hospitality. People are nice and welcoming and easy going. After one day spent there, even my usually grouchy son agreed that it was good place to live. He even went so far as to tell me that he would not mind us relocating there.
On the second day of our stay, we went to visit the Island of Ndar. Saint Louis is divided into three parts: Sor, where we stayed, the main island and the last part compromised of Ndar Tout and Guett Ndar. We took a carriage ride around the main island comprised of old colonial homes some in ruins, some renovated in vibrant colors. Our chauffeur was also a guide and he amused us with interesting stories. Did you know that during colonial times, the governor thought the call of prayer to be disturbing since he lived behind the main mosque? So he put a clock and a bell at the Mosque and forced the Muslims to use them instead. I also learned that there was an underground passage between the military camps in the north side of the island and the governor's residence on the south side. In case of attacks during world war 2, the governor could use the secret passage to flee. Needless to say that the ride was entertaining and educational.
Interesting architecture
Crane used back in the colonial times
Art displayed on the street
Interesting seats made out of recycled cooking pots
Ndar's other bridge called "Geole" or Jail because it is located near the jail
Fishermen's village
In the carriage with our funny guide
Beautiful Pink Hotel
The boys at the Faidherbe Bridge
The following day we went back home but this time we hired a car and a driver. We stopped by Ngaay, which is a place famous for its handmade leather shoes. I went overboard and bought 4 pair of sandals for myself and others as souvenirs. I wanted more but I found the design to lack a bit of finesse. Still I had my shoes for peanuts so I cannot really complain.
It was such a nice and relaxing trip. It was decided at the last minute but I do not regret it one bit. The kids got to go out of the city, discover new things, and meet their extended family. As long as they were far away from their video games, I was pleased. My Dad got to go back in time and I was the most relaxed I had been in months. I think I will return but then, I will try and stay in a hotel or lodge. My family is great and all but they go out of their way to welcome and please you. And I would not want to impose on them.
The home where we stayed
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